Design 2715 40 meter Motoryacht
Heres a new tri-deck 40-meter motoryacht design with emphasis on hull efficiency, sea-keeping, and with a seaworthy interior design that provides safety and comfort while underway.The lower accommodations deck includes a tender garage, engine room, four guest staterooms, crew cabins for eight crew, a laundry room, and a large crew mess. The main deck features a spacious master stateroom with a private office, a salon area, dining room, galley, and aft exterior lounging area. The bridge deck features a sky-lounge with a bar, spacious exterior dining area, gym, and wheelhouse that connects to the captain’s stateroom. The sun deck includes a large aft sunning area with Jacuzzi, dining area, and full bar.
Length Overall……………………………………………………131’-3” (40m)
Length Waterline.………………………………………………120’-0” (36.5m)
Beam…………………………………………………………………27’-10” (8.5m)
Draft:……………………………………………………………………8’-3” (2.5m) Displacement:………………………………………………836,000lbs (380MT)
Hull Type…………………………………………………………Displacement Hull
Construction……………………………Steel Hull, Aluminum Superstructure
Main Engines…………………………………………………………2 x Caterpillar C32
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Design 2511 Holiday 47
This production boat was built in the Philippines in the late 80s. This was not the first S&S design built at this shipyard. They had previously built a couple of dozen 36ers to our design. The production run for the 47 was six boats.
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And the plans.
Principal DimensionsLWL 37-9"
Beam 13-11"
Draft 7-7"
Displacement 32,062 lbs
Ballast 11,500 lbs
Sail Area 1,126 sq ft
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Longitudinal Fairing Completed
I am now satisfied with the fit of the test planking on the longitudinal members. I still need to fair the edges of the frames on the bottom, but that will require temporarily adding the bottom battens first, so I will cover that in the future.
What brought all of this about was when I first faired the port chine aft of frame 5 and then started test fitting the plywood. It was immediately apparent that the angle of the chine outer edge was off. The edge of the plywood would have had to wrap around the edge of the chine rather than lie on it flat (as was desired).
Further investigation using a batten stick revealed that the chine was flat from aft of the frame to forward of the frame. It should have been curved. Not good. The batten allowed me to see just how much additional material was needed.
It also showed why the test plywood wasnt lying correctly. If the chine had been further outboard, the angle of the chine outer edge would have been different. I tested more plywood with the batten in place and could see that if the chine was as far outboard as the batten indicated it should be, then the skin would have fit correctly (assuming that the angle also changed on the chine).
This shortage of material also meant that the frame edges on the sides were short. These had been faired down to the chine some time back. At that time I believed the chine to be in the correct position and didnt re-measure the frame width afterwards.
I checked the starboard side and found the same problem, although not quite as bad. Again, the frame edge came up short to the corrected curve. At this point I was pretty depressed about the whole affair and had to step away for several days.
I decided to first measure the frame width with the stick battens in place. The measurement at the corrected curve was the same as indicated on the plans. So I had to figure out a plan of action.
I decided to add shims to the chines first in two sections (forward and aft of frame 5). Then I would add shims to the frame edge on the sides to bring it back in line with the curve. All of this would be done one step at a time. I would ad the shims aft of the frame, fair them, add the shims to the frame and fair them, and then add the next shims forward of the frame and fair them.
I took measurements from the stick battens first so that I would know how much to taper the shims and how long they needed to be (as well as how thick). Because the chine outer edge was already faired on the side and the bottom surfaces, each section had to be done independently of the other.
Here is a shot of the first port side shim on the side mounting surface of the chine after fairing. You can see that I have also added the shim for the frame edge as well.
Here is a shot of the starboard side shim on the frame. It was necessary in order to get the frame to come out to the corrected curve on the chine. I havent cleaned any of this up other than to smooth out the epoxy. Part of my tasks this coming month is to re-encapsulate any areas that need the work.
Here is the port side shim aft of frame 5. I have already cut the new angle notches in this photo. The next step would be to blend them into a fair curve.
The fair curve to determine the depth of the notches was based upon several reference points. The measurements I took with the stick batten, the points where frames 4 and 5 intersected the chine correctly, and a fair curve determined by using the batten between the reference points.
Here is the same area after blending the angled notches.
I was apprehensive about doing all of this, but it turned out to be the correct approach. When I fitted the plywood later, it practically laid into position. No doubt the marine plywood (which is stiffer) will be more difficult, but there does not appear to be any sharp bends now and I am hopeful that everything will go smoother from here on.
The area forward of frame 5 had little angle needed so it was much easier to fix. That area was faired in as well and it also fits correctly now.
What I was after is illustrated in the next two shots. The test plywood lies on the chine and keel as well as the frame edge and doesnt require any real force to get it to conform. Furthermore, the second shot shows the fit of the joint on the chine.
Frame 5s bottom edge will need to be faired to match the angle of the skin as it curves down to frame 6. I can do that using the test plywood as a guide. The same thing needs to be done at all the other bottom frame edges, but these will use the bottom battens temporarily installed as a guide for the correct angle. Aft of frame 4 the amount of material to remove is very small and I am confident that will go quickly.
Frames 4 and 5 will need their edges angle forward and down.
So the goal is to complete the remaining fairing work this month as well as fix all the various areas that need to be re-coated with epoxy. I also want to clean up the chine inner edges that are exposed in the cabin area so that they have a nicer appearance. Finally, I have some runs in the epoxy in a few areas from the last time I tried to re-coat. These will need to be smoothed out and re-coated as well.
In order to insure I get all this completed and dont miss anything, I divided the boat into 14 sections for inspection of work needed. These sections are numbered 1 through 7 from aft to forward and there are duplicate sections port and starboard, using the keel as the separator.
I inspected each section and noted any work that needed to be done. I will then tackle each section separately. This breaks the work into smaller manageable chunks.
The reason I want to accomplish all of this is because it will much more difficult to do after the skin is applied. When I get the plywood I need for skinning later this month, I want to focus entirely on fitting the skin and not have to worry about any loose ends.
I should be able to finish up the loose end work and the fairing by the end of October. This keeps me on track or my 12 month plan to complete and flip the hull by the Fall season of 2015. At least thats the goal.
Although September was difficult, the perseverance paid off. I am glad to get through this and can now start focusing on the next tasks.
Until next time, take care.
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Bark Canoe and Skin Kayak Items at L C Bates Museum
Nevertheless, its a fun place to browse on a short visit, its cheap ($3 for adults), its on the way to good canoeing and rafting in northern Maine, and it contains a couple exhibits of interest to us. One is about Native American (primarily Maine) birchbark technology; the other displays Greenland Inuit artifacts from the first decade of the 20th century.
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| This bark canoe model is over 3 long. Its decorated with hundreds of dyed porcupine quills, both ends of which are tucked into small holes pre-punched in the bark. Although the exhibit card says that its "likely mid-west in origin," the ends are exaggerated representations of those on Canadian fur trade canoes. |
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| From the exhibit card: "This old, well-made model is an example of the thousands sold to Maine tourists in the late 19th and early 20th century (sic). This canoe shows how heated tree resin was used to seal and waterproof the birch bark joints. The word for canoe in all Abenaki languages in Aquiden." Below the canoe model is a moose call, also made of birch bark. |
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| An Abenaki canoe paddle, "of a size suited for teaching a young person the art of propelling a canoe." |
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| A 19th century box with hinged covers, probably Penobscot, probably made for the tourist trade and intended for use as a picnic hamper. The crossed paddles and tepee designs -- of poorer quality than the box itself -- are incised in the bark in the same manner that canoes were decorated. |
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| The exhibit card identifies the miniature kayaks in this and the following photo as toys, made for indigenous children. This may be incorrect: except for the wooden one (above, right), they were probably made for the tourist trade and/or upon the request of researchers or collectors. The one above left is ivory, and the kayakers hand is made to hold the harpoon that rests across the cockpit coaming. |
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| Two nicely authentic skin-on-frame kayak models. |
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| The Greenland kayak was essentially a hunting tool, used primarily in the pursuit of seals and walruses. The main hunting weapon was a harpoon with a detachable head or foreshaft. The largest of these bone harpoon points and fragments are only about 4" long. |
2013 Wooden Boat Show at Mystic
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| Our inside exhibit at the 2012 Wooden Boat Show |
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| Outstanding Innovation Award 2007 |
P.S. I hoped that we would have the prototype of the DS15 at the show as well but it will not happen this year. The builder is not yet ready to show his boat.
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The Trinidadian Pirogue
before it goes back to the small but stellar Rockport Public Library. Its the pirogue of Trinidad, the southernmost of the Antilles.
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| All images from Pyle. Click to enlarge. |
Pyle discusses the construction method at length, which Ill telescope here. The dugout base, which really forms only the boats keel, is sharp and deep on the outside (see lines drawings below), and hollowed inside. To it are added a long, straight stem and a broad, nearly vertical transom -- wider since the introduction of outboard engines, to provide greater buoyancy aft. The lowest, or garboard, strake is first nailed to the stem, then to the top of the keel, and finally to the transom. But its not a typical edge-to-edge or lapped joint between the plank and the keel. Rather, the outboard surface of the garboard rests horizontally atop the keel and is through-nailed to it with galvanized nails. Subsequent strakes are lapped without bevels, and fastened with clenched nails.
When Pyle observed the process in 1975, there was only one builder on Trinidad, named Taitt, and his methods (which is not to say his workmanship) were so refined that joggled half-frames were cut to patterns before being trimmed for installation. What is impressive is that no patterns or plans were used for any of the steps prior to cutting the frames, so the work that was all done by eye had admirable accuracy and consistency. The boat is finished with the installation of stringers, thwarts, wales, and a small foredeck.
To quote Pyle:
The lines of a Taitt pirogue seem to confirm its hybrid ancestry. The waterlines forward showed much greater hollow than I found in any small craft [in the Caribbean] other than the dugout gommiers and their derivatives, the yoles. Use of the shell as a keel points to a dugout origin here. The odd thing was that raising strakes should be lapped instead of fastened on edge as was done elsewhere with dugouts.One of Pyles informants suggested that the pirogue "was of Amerindian origin, that raising strakes had been a development connected to the diminishing availability of large tree trunks for dugout canoes. He surmised that the notion of lapping had been learned from the Royal Navy, whose launches and tenders were always clinker-built."
Although Pyle took the lines himself, and they are presumably accurate, these were from an outboard-powered boat, while the strangely low and long sailplan was based on a sketch from a native informant and seems less reliable. No sailing pirogues were in existence in 1975, engines having completely taken over.
Centreboard finished
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| Slab of 20lb of lead ready to be inserted. Note now much of the hull has been sanded back |
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| And lead installed. Centreboard now ready to install. Were still looking for the spreaders for our mast. |
Design 236 Tugboat Kit Jones
Launch DayThis boat is a little unusual as it was not built by a shipyard but by the ship operators themselves, in their own back yard. The boat was built in 1939 on Sapeloe Island off the coast of Georgia. The boat was designed to ultimately transport men and materials from the mainland to the island with an occasional coastwise trip as far south as Jacksonville, Florida.
Local timbers were used in her construction, primarily longleaf yellow pine. The planking varies from 2" to 2.5" thick. The boat was powered by a single 4-cylinder Fairbanks-Morse diesel generating 100hp at 400rpm.
The aft deck was designed to be large enough to carry a truck or motorcar. Crew accommodations were for four. Upon review of the accommodations plan you will note that the galley is adjacent to a fairly generous "owners cabin" and food could be directly served to the buffet. The boat was apparently used often for weekend fishing trips with friends.
Principal DimensionsLWL 56-0"
Beam 16-0"
Draft 4-6"
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My Best Friend
People say that sailboats dont have brakes. Maybe some peoples sailboats dont, but mine does. And it saved my butt several time... today!
I have got my anchor system perfected to where I can have my anchor down and set in under 30 seconds. Time me.
Ive sailed with people who never put their anchor out. I sometimes wonder what they would do if they suddenly needed to stop. I suspect it would be a 20 minute 3-ring circus. That makes me nervous.
I put my anchor down 4 times today. Once when I went aground (more on that joyous topic, later), once when my engine stalled, once when I needed a break for a late lunch, and once at my evening anchorage.
The first two times called for quick action. The second two times were more relaxed, but the anchor went down just as fast.
How do I do it? Well, I have a bow roller, and I do store my anchor on it, when Im some place civilized, like a dock...
But for every day use, I keep the chain and the anchor in the bow well. That way, I can walk forward, pick up the anchor, and lower it over board (between the bowsprit and the wisker stay.) This is much faster than trying to feed the anchor and chain through the bow roller. Once the anchor and chain are down, I let the anchor rode out over the bow roller, as usual. The 22 lb. Lewmar Claw, with 12 of heavy chain, digs in instantly.
Recovery is nearly as fast. I pull the anchor rode up till the chain part is up to the bow roller, then tie the rode off to the sampson post. Then I grab hold of the chain and haul it in hand over hand. I have a better angle on it, hoisting it in over the side.
This hand-driven recovery system works, because my anchor is relatively light... just 22 lbs. And because it doesnt have any moving parts. Nothing to pivot and catch on things. And because it has no pointy bits... All of its points are fairly rounded. Its a very user-friendly anchor that tends not to catch on things.
>>> Next Episode: Foul Wind, Fair City
Follow me on Twitter! My son Chris has been bugging me for a few weeks to use Twitter to make short, more frequent posts from my iPhone, for when I dont have the time for longer blog posts. I dont know how it will work out, but Im willing to give it a try! My Twitter ID is UnlikelyVoyager (UnlikelyBoatBuilder is too long, apparently), and the URL is http://twitter.com/UnlikelyVoyager. Twitter me back, or leave a comment below, if you think this is worth while. Thanks, Chris!
I hope youre enjoying "The Unlikely Boat Builder" as much as I enjoy writing it. Over 250 people have asked for a way to be notified automatically when I post new episodes. Ive figured out how to do this, so if youd like to be notified, please click on the link below. I promise Ill never spam you (and Google will have my head if I do.)
Thanks for your interest!
-- John
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Sully to Penarth 25 07 08
Looking on to Flat Holm
Forecast came through on the radio force 3/4 possible 5 which could be seen further out to sea toward the two holm islands. Around to the other side of the points though the sea was perfect with a gentle swell.
Approaching Penarth we passed some idiots throwing stones at us. You would think being out here on the water you could get away from them.
We land on the jeti opposite the RLNI station for a quick break before taking the ebbing tide back. I check my GPS and it reads the fastest speed at 24kts! Then when I get home another record is set at 30.2kts!! The only thing I can think of is, its either when I was paddling with a following tide and sped up for a split second on the back of a wave or my GPS is buggered. Its been pretty accurate until now.
Heading around Ball Bay we headed once again into the overfalls which was much more fun than having them wash up over your back. Into Sully sound I was surprised how little (if any) current there was. I thought the tide would rush through here, especially on a big tide.
We landed on Sully Island before having a race back over the sound to the cars.
