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Design 1816 Chelsea 46 Motoryacht

Posted by Unknown at 3:30 PM on Monday, March 2, 2015

I happened to stumble upon this design the other day and its one I had never seen before. This 46 wooden raised pilothouse motoryacht was designed in 1964 for Packanack Marine Corporation of Newark, New Jersey. Perhaps the company was named after the lake in New Jersey which bears the same name.

This little piece from Yachting magazine of 1966 shows a Chelsea Yacht and attributes it to Sparkman & Stephens but on closer inspection it does not look like the same design as shown here and I can see from the files that the 46 was the only boat designed for Packanack.

Here is the general arrangement and inboard profile.

LOA 46-4"

LWL 42-11"

Beam 14-8
Draft 3-6"

When Youre Ready

Posted by Unknown at 11:15 AM

Something happened to me a few weeks ago. After months and years of thinking and plotting and planning and drawing and worrying about how to build a decent galley into the Blue Moon, I suddenly realized I knew how to do it. Not that I knew exactly how to do it, but I had enough confidence to know I could probably figure it out if I dove head first into the process.

This confidence is what I needed to rip out the galley that had served its purpose (however poorly) during my long voyage up the east side of the US. This so-called galley was nothing more than a lightly-built cabinet with three flimsy shelves, with a single-burner gimbaled stove screwed onto the side. I was never happy with it, and while ripping it out, I realized that it probably wasnt built by the original builder of the Blue Moon, who was a very good builder, and quite neat and tidy with epoxy. This tiny cedar cabinet was cemented to the side of the Blue Moon with great sloppy goops of epoxy that I still havent chiseled off completely. So I must say I took great satisfaction in demolishing the blasted thing, and chucking the pieces into Cabin Boy for disposal.

Then it was time to start building.

The replacement galley will be the same width, but about twice as deep and 10 times more useful, I hope. It will have a large countertop, unbroken by any sinks or stoves. While planning my galley, I read an old book that claimed that a small boat doesnt have room for built-in sinks or stoves, and it was right. When I want to cook, I will put my stove on the counter top. When I want to wash up, Ill stow the stove away, and replace it with a nice plastic dish pan. When Im not thinking about food, it will be a handy place to examine charts, or assemble small machines, or work on my stamp collection.

Im still not certain what will go below the top shelf, but there will be some sort of storage. Exactly what, I will decide after the sides and top are in position. No need to rush these decisions...

The sides will be made from 3/4" exterior grade plywood. Actually, MDO, which is exterior ply with two good surfaces. The forward one will support the head of the new bunk I plan to build, but more on that later.

The first step was to make patterns for the two half-bulkheads that will frame the galley. To make these patterns, I used a tick-stick -- one of my favorite boat building tricks.

A tick-stick is a long stick, sharpened at one end, with several notches cut into one side, labeled 1,2,3 or A,B,C, or whatever you fancy. The notches should be close enough together so that whenever you lay the stick alongside the board, one of the notches is on the board.

To use it, you just put the pointy end of the stick somewhere on the hull, or deck, or whereever the bulkhead needs to fit against, hold the stick securely on the board (I only used a clamp so I could take the photo), and draw a line along the stick, being sure to dip your pencil into the notch.

Tick-stick and board in use on the site of the old galley.
The wet-looking spot is actually dish detergent that spilled in the cabinet
years ago. Why it left such a stain, I do not know...

The board is equally important. I built mine so the front edge (the one to the left) is straight. It represents the edge of the bulkhead. I positioned the board so this edge was exactly where I wanted the front of the bulkhead to be. I used a quality bubble level (on a calm day!) to make sure the front of the board was exactly vertical.

The pointy end is also important. You want to position the point so it sits exactly on the hull where the corner of the bulkhead will go. The angle just has to be small enough so the point can sit on the hull without the right side of the board interfering with the hull. The board needs to be wide enough to capture the measurements. A foot is wide enough.

If you click on the photo below, you will see a bigger version of the image. You will see that I have already captured the profile of the underside of the deck, where the deck meets the cabin top, the corner where the deck meets the hull, and several other important structural detail. Note that each line has at least one notch on it, and that the notch is labeled 1, 2, 3, or 4. These correspond to the 4 notches on my stick. You might need fewer or more notches, but 4 worked for me.

Note also that I labeled the various lines to make it a bit easier to reproduce the shape Id captured later.

Close up of details

Heres another shot that clearly shows the 4 notches.

Another angle showing the various ticks

When you are done, youll have something like the photo below. The more measurements you take, the better -- up to a point. You dont need a million measurements -- just enough to capture all the important corners and curves.

The board when done. Notice labels! Very helpful.

When I finished with the first half-bulkhead, I did the other. The process was the same, of course.

Once I had my two sets of measurements (made on two different boards, but with the same tick-strip), I brought them back to the shop to reverse the process.

The first step is to line up the straight edge of the board with one of the machine-cut edges of the plywood. This straight edge will be the front of the bulkhead.

Then all you do is pick one of the lines you drew on the board and line up the tick strip, being careful to position the correct notch on the stick with the labeled notch on the board. When the stick is carefully lined up, clamp it firmly, then go down to the pointy edge of the stick, and draw a dot right under the point.

Repeat for all the lines on your board.

Reversing the process onto pattern stock

When I was done, I had a bunch of dots that represented the shape of the hull, and several more that showed where the flat underside of the deck was, and the two corners where the deck met the hull, and where it met the cabin top.

I used a light mahogany batten to connect the hull dots. This is just like spiling a pattern when building a boat. The dots almost lined up perfectly, but the purpose of a batten is to make the imperfect measurements into a perfect curve. The batten evens out the mistakes. More or less.

Connect the dots with a batten

The curve is the hard part. You can use a straight edge to connect the deck-line dots.

Im always torn about how to cut such a large, curved design from a piece of plywood. I used my go-to tool for this: a jig saw. There might be a better way to do this, but Ill be darned if I know what it is. For now, a jig saw works good enough, if you are very careful.

If you do everything right, a beautiful woman will agree to hold your lovely work up to be photographed and generally oooh-ed and ahhh-ed over. The Blue Moons shapely hull is clearly reflected in the hull line. The straight deck line is between Helenas two hands. The straight forward edge of the bulkhead is to the left.

Have beautiful woman hold up your work.

Here are the two patterns laid on top of each other, with their straight edges lined up. You can see that the Blue Moon changes shape slightly even in the 2 feet that separates these two bulkheads.

Do it again for the other side of the galley...
Notice they are not QUITE the same...

Then it was time for the first fitting. If you did everything correctly, the pattern should fit perfectly. Or at least perfectly enough. I brought a small block plane with me to take a few shavings here and there off the edge. A few test fittings and a few shaves had the bulkhead pattern fitting pretty darn well.

Before cutting real plywood, check for fit.
(Not bad, eh?!?)

I also brought a saw with me to roughly cut out the top rail of the bulkhead. The side of the bulkhead will be 6" above the counter top. The corners will actually be rounded, but I just wanted to capture the rough shape in the pattern. Id clean it up in the shop, later on, and duplicate the cuts on the other pattern.

Make sure the fronts line up!
Again, not too bad, for the first time!

Finally, I took the photo above to show how the two front edges should line up with each other. By front I mean the left edges. Note how you can see both edges, one behind the other, and that they are parallel to each other.

I would call that good enough.

With the patterns made and fitted, it was time to cut real plywood...

Next Episode: The Perfect Pump

Design 1784 Cassela

Posted by Unknown at 6:46 AM

I think this profile is stunning. Its too bad we dont have any images of this boat. Back in May we posted an article about her sistership, Jupiter, that was built in New Zealand.

Cassela was constructed of wood by the Broderna Martinsson yard of Henan, Sweden. She was launched in 1965. The boat was designed for offshore racing with heavy weather in mind.

Heres the general arrangement.

Principal Dimensions
LOA 42-7"
LWL 30-0"
Beam 11-3"
Draft 6-9"
Displacement 22,400 lbs
Ballast 10,800 lbs
Sail Area 725 sq ft

Design 1899 I W 31 Class

Posted by Unknown at 10:00 PM on Sunday, March 1, 2015

This sweet looking design was built as a production model for the I. W. Varvet AB boatyard of Henan, Sweden, which is located on the island of Orust, north of Goteborg. This community can trace their boatbuilding roots back to the time of Viking ships.

It is the first of the designs created for Varvet and a fairly early fiberglass production model and was highly successful, with over 350 units produced, starting around 1969. She is designed as an I.O.R. ocean racing (1/2 tonner) yacht but also for family cruising.

Here are the plans.

Thanks to the owner who sent these images.

Principal Dimensions
LOA 30-5"
LWL 22-0"
Beam 8-10"
Draft 5-6"
Displacement 7,750 lbs
Sail Area 342 sq ft
Ballast 3,520 lbs

Shakedown Cruise

Posted by Unknown at 10:45 AM on Saturday, February 28, 2015

I expected the first couple weeks of this cruise to be a bit of a shakedown -- both of the boat and of me. And indeed it has! I was initially annoyed by the need to stop and get my outboard fixed, but it has turned out to be a good thing. Heres why.

First, that little knock on the shin that I complained about in passing nearly 2 weeks ago developed into a big problem that needed fixing before I could tackle anything else. Although my skin was barely scratched, and has long healed, underneath the skin, critters like these were having a field day.

SEM micrograph of S. aureus colonies; note the

grape-like clustering common to Staphylococcus species.

In short, I had what the doctors called a staff infection. Have would be the better word, since Ive still got it. The first antibiotic the doctors gave me made a good first impression, but failed to knock it out of me. The second one seems to be doing a better job, but its still hanging in there. Having a few days ashore allowed me to spend quality time with doctors, and keep the old leg elevated for a couple hours a day. Hopefully, Ive got this licked. Stay tuned...

Meanwhile, my outboard was being tended by a different set of doctors -- the very capable folks at SaraBay Marina. Parts had to be ordered from 3 different states, but they finally all came in and its now made a complete recovery. It needed a carburetor rebuild, a new set of spark plugs, and a new dipstick... the old one wasnt a tight fit and had been leaking a small amount of oil.

I also replaced the gas tank, just to be sure. I didnt want crud or water in the old tank to reinfect the now healthy motor.

A healthy motor is going to be important in the coming days, since Im now running a couple weeks behind schedule, and Ive decided to take the shortcut across Lake Okeechobee. Id been toying with the idea of taking this canal anyway, since its supposed to be both beautiful and very different from anything else Im likely to see on this journey.

More importantly, summer is imminent and I want to be heading north before the hurricane season arrives in June. That probably would not be possible if I took the long way through the Keys.

Ortona Lock and Dam

photo USACE

No idea what Im getting into with bridges, locks, dams, and bugs, but thats what makes it interesting.

The stopover also allowed me to give Cabin Boy a bit of TLC. Namely, a good bottom cleaning:

3 weeks accumulation of junk on Cabin Boy

photo jalmberg

And boy, did he need it! His bottom wasnt this bad a week ago, but I guess a week of just sitting in the marina allowed all sorts of critters -- mainly baby barnacles -- to find a home.

They scraped off easily enough, but Im going to have to give him another coat of paint when I arrive in Stuart FL in a week or so. Im not sure whether to use real bottom paint, or not... Id be less likely to take a scraper to expensive bottom paint. It seems easier to use cheap oil based paint, and just haul him out once a week for a good cleaning. Will need to think about this...

After a good cleaning

photo jalmberg

Finally, Im still trimming down and organizing the Blue Moons stores. Ive got rid of two more big boxes of stuff that I realized I would not need -- at least until I got to Stuart. I definitely over packed for this journey, but Im gradually narrowing stuff down to things I really need. This winnowing process has freed up a lot of much needed room.

Im also learning a lot about keeping things organized in a space that is frequently kocked violently about.

In particular, Ive organized my limited shelf space with plastic boxes that help keep my food, dishes, pots, etc., from all ending up on the cabin floor.

My plastic corrals

photo jalmberg

Several net hammocks are also extremely useful for keeping things in their place, and easy to find. One of the things that really annoys me is not being able to find something in a few seconds... A few seconds, in the dark, in a sea way, with no one at the tiller, is all I have some times.

My fresh food locker

photo jalmberg

Ive become very good at putting things back where they belong. I can totally understand the whole idea of ship shape, and everything in its place.

So, we all seem to be healthier and better organized than when we arrived here in the Sara Bay Marina. Thanks to everyone at this terrific marina, particularly the service manager Debbie, and the dock master Jeff. Download the mechanical service on the waterway, or just an overnight berth, youd have a hard time beating this place.

Tomorrow, we voyage south, again!

>>> Next Episode: The Boss

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When Youre Ready

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Shakedown Cruise

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